You have selected a handsome sewing pattern for a tailored, button down shirt. You’ve picked out the perfect sewing fabric – a knit material – and you can’t wait to get into your sewing room, rev up your sewing machine, and get to work. There’s just one problem, though; as you’re sewing, you come to the arms and you suddenly realize that you have to sew a sleeve placket!
For many sewers, especially those who are just starting out, sleeve plackets can be pretty intimidating. This part of a tailored shirt is essential, as it makes it possible to fit the hand and wrist through the arm. But while it may be a vital part of a shirt, a placket pattern can be pretty confusing. With so many fold and cut lines, it’s easy to see why a lot of people find shirt plackets tricky. Have no fear! In this sewing help guide, we’ll teach you how you can sew sleeve plackets with a few basic sewing essentials so that you can ensure that your hand-stitch shirt fits properly and has a finished look.
Find your placket pattern. If you’re using a standard commercial sewing pattern, the placket pattern should have come with it and it should be clearly marked; however, if it didn’t come with a pattern or you can’t locate it, you should be able to find a template that you can print out online.
With the wrong side of the fabric facing you, set the placket pattern on top of the sleeve. Stitch out the box around the cutting line, and make sure that you pivot around the angles. It will be helpful to set a small stitch length on your sewing machine.
Using a sharp pair of shears, cut the opening line into the shape of a V. Make sure that you cut the line so that it is situated close to the stitch line.
Flip the sleeve over so that it is right side up and press the placket through the opening. Use an iron to press the opening.
Fold the small side of the sleeve under the sleeve, right along the folding line and use an iron to press it.
Slowly stitch along the folding line. Take care that you are placing your stitches so that they are situated right up against the folding line.
Fold the other side of the opening so that it forms a point. Use an iron to press the point.
Fold the sleeve along the two folding lines. Again, use an iron to press the folding lines.
Position the pointed part of the placket over the smaller part of the placket. Stitch to enclose the raw edges so that they are positioned underneath the placket.
Sew an edgestich along the placket, continuing the stitch about 2 cm more than the opening of the cuff to enclose the raw edges.